Видео

Good informative video. I'm shopping around for a replacement Radiator for my 2004 Sienna, any pointers?

This is the method I use and it’s fantastic! If I hadn’t seen your video, I wouldn’t be here now five years later and two vans later living my dream! Thank you!

Thank u it works for me

I still am not convinced this was a fix when all I saw was a high temp on the display and no cooling happening.

No it was the Pulley .they changed the pulley .a 20$ part for 450 .oo

You are legend!

Thanks! I just used this method with the plastic bag. I made a short and gave you credit 😊

Sounds like you have a noisy water pump

Great video. Very detailed and easy to follow. Thank you.

Your transmission oil you drained still looks very good .

I'm up the creek without a paddle. Anyone know where a schematic of this board with chips or a replacement board is? The fix was temporary to me. i think i have other boot problems now. Cant find anything anywhere

Thank you!! That was my problem, it was burnt out beyond repair. Where would I find a replacement? I’ve look online and can’t find a similar board any suggestions please

Mine works fine and I've had it for years.

wont power at all, put my finger on the contact, works perfectly, thanks a lot !!

You actually need a new inner and outer tie rod; the inner should be stiff and this one easily moves, and the bushing of the outer one is all squashed and leaking grease without a fitting to add more grease; they are both bad. I like the idea of using a greased bag, you think outside of the box! thank you.

Just want to say thanks! This was my exact issue. We up and running! Bless.

Thanks so much!! I freak out when any lights come on!!!

Well done, maybe not to the expectations of some unnecessary name-calling experts in the comments, they may know how to do this job correctly, but they fail miserably in how to be nice to others.

Thanks again✋🏼

cabin air filters away over price great video

You need to cut the plastic which came with it and tie the filter to it otherwise on your model you will just suck the filter element down into the blower motor.

You are a saint - I tried other methods found on RUclips without success and almost gave up. Found your video, figured, “Got nothing left to lose,” and sure enough, it looked like there was no solder right in the same spot as yours. You are amazing for sharing this - THANK YOU!! 🎉

I have same issue w gates timing belt on 2001 toyota highlander v6. I'm a mechanic >20yrs. My vehicle my install...aprox 20,000 miles...I am going to Toyota for parts from now on. Car care nut very informative also.

I’ve had one of these since they first came out with this model, and it still works fine, I usually have it connected to the battery in my truck since I don’t use it much but it’s spent many a cold winter nights out there

"All that crappy..".thank$ your doing wel...l so much less "BS" than others....(videos) now are there two different 🎉sprays....? I'll look, can one type spray b used, ....? Very,very helpful...." Didn't even use the 🪛🪛🪛🪛 ii"

Report: Worked like a charm! I found that the transistor short test didn't do anything until after I replaced the resistor and battery. Only then would shorting the transistor start the unit temporarily. Once all 3 were replaced, I'm back up and running! Thanks again.

Same issue now with later PSA engine Citroen/ Peugeot using gates belt swapped to different manufacturer silent didn't change anything else. Happened twice now.

Had this noise on my 2007 Toyota Highlander 3.3 after belt, water pump, idler, tensioner. I replaced the Mitsuboshi belt that came in the kit, with a Toyto OEM belt. Several hundred miles, so far so good!

Me later today: I _am_ propped up against a lemon here. /me nods. (Thanks for making this video! Gonna try these tests and fixes!)

Same here... fixed mine as well :)

Thank you so much very easy I just did my 2004 Toyota sienna is really easy appreciate 👍

Best video. Have exact same problem. Now forced to hold the broken master key close to ignition to start it with unprogrammed key, over limit too.

Thanks you helped me out today

I picked one up too. It works and cools but I notice the back wall area frosting up and I’m thinking something is wrong. Could it be the magnetic door seals not sealing correctly? It will be outside in 100 degree whether so I’m thinking it may be an issue. Any ideas? Please let me know. Thanks!

Thank you sir. I’ve replaced the transistor and it starts up nicely, it’s been stable for 13 hours, the longest it’s been running in the past 2 weeks. The last required part I’ve received yesterday and swapped it. Soldering wasn’t as bad as I thought as it’s such a small part. Fingers crossed it stays like this. ❤👍

When doing like showed, the rack started but shutdown as soon as I removed the multimeter's shunt. We had to plug off the main power cable, do the shunt on the transistor with power off. I think it "purged" something. Then put back the main power cable and everything worked. Note : we do not use the 2 PSU together from now, on this faulty rack, we only use 1 power cable to avoid the transistor bug again.

Thanks mate...it worked like magic...2023🎉

Great job! Thank you 👍

Thank You

Have an '04. Thank you!!!

Thank you very much. Helped.

now the Prescott Valley looks like crap with all the stupid HOAs standing and still being built. Essentially, there is barely any open space left on the right side.

thank you

Bingo! That is the noise my 2000 Avalon is making after having new belt, water pump, tensioner, bearings, cam seals, crank seal put in. I finally on a 92 degree day removed the timing belt cover to diagnose what is making this crazy sound . Upon inspection everything looks good no oil, no belt shavings, no crust from coolant, just a loud ringing and belt noise. So I squirted water on the top of the belt two squirts from a spray bottle and the noise stopped! So now what I guess I have to wonder will this be ok or will it get worse. What ever this is BS all this money and parts and here you are! My solution drive it till it blows it sounds like an old time sewing machine running at high speed!

I actually had the resistor replaced under RMA in 2019, but recently started having the exact power issue described here. I'm getting a buddy to solder a new transistor onto the board and will replace the battery too. Thanks for the excellent detail!

Thank you for this, ordered the transistors on ebay and fixed my DS1515+. Seemed to already have the 100ohm resistor so it must have been a late model. All is working as expected.

Thanks for the video! Can someone help me understand why shorting those pins makes it start? From the BC847 pinout, it is the collector and base being shorted, but I thought you would need to short the collector and emitter to bypass the transistor?

I got this issue after installing a Toyota made in USA belt from a Toyota parts department.

The good news... Your bearing is not about to fail and break your engine, your cam bearing is not grinding away, nothing is broke. I have this same issue, with a Toyota belt currently. Has been off and on for a year. It really does sound like grinding metal or a bearing grinding away. Turns out it is very common and from what I have found, not something to worry about. I have not come across anyone yet online that had this issue and then had the belt fail. Many have had the issue for years and no problems, taken to Toyota mechanics and was told it is pretty common, is the belt making the noise and is ok. There must be some kind of interaction between the belt and pully that is causing a resonance of some sort, like when you rub a wet finger around the rim of a wine glass causing a high-pitched ringing tone. I chased this noise down expecting a failing idler. I took the cover off and inspected everything. took the tension off the belt and free spun the idler, and inspected the cam pulley to make sure it was not maybe rubbing against the packing plate of the cover, my cam bearings are in good shape. Isolated the sound to the area of the forward cam pully. I used an automotive stethoscope. When I put the probe on the metal around the pully, there is no squeal, just the typical loud rumbling hum of the bearings turning/moving parts. the squealing sound is only heard with your ears in air. The belt is putting out some kind of whistle that sounds like metal on metal squealing. I inspected my belt carefully, looks brand new, no abnormal wear, all edges still crisp and sharp, no metal filings, no dirt or grime, no rubber dust all good. I just wish I knew how to stop the squeek without doing a whole timing job again. But, super relieved it is not something breaking.

Would this trick work with a 00-06 Chevrolet Silverado 1500? Thanks